Last night, the Old Bridge was illuminated in memorial to Srebrenica where, 25 years ago, the genocide of Bosnian Muslims was perpetrated by units of the Bosnian Serb Army of the RS during the Wars of Yugoslav Succession. To this day, victims are still being found and identified so that their family and loved ones can finally lay them to rest at the Memorial Cemetery at Potočari at the annual commemoration.

8,372 is the number of victims, mostly men and boys, of the Srebrenica Genocide. The individual and collective loss felt because of this atrocity, is so much greater than this number and the events which occurred leading up to and during July 1995. Genocide cannot be confined to the events of a few days and entails far more than the physical loss of human life. Genocide must be understood as an intentional process of destruction and erasure that, once started, continues into perpetuity. While 25 years may have elapsed since the Srebrenica Genocide, realize that it is also very much present today and every day. It is our common responsibility to recognize the heinousness of this crime and educate ourselves on genocide so we can better recognize and prevent it from occurring again. 

On the 9th of November 1993, the Stari Most succumbed to intense bombardment by the Croatian Defense Council and collapsed into the Neretva River below. We commemorate the reconstruction of the Stari Most annually on July 23rd. We also celebrate the renewal of the Stari Most daily through our recognition of its significance – architectural, historical, cultural, and symbolic – enacted through our daily meanderings which carry us across the graceful arch as well as through our dedication to sharing this monument with the global community, the members of which visit Mostar and cross our Stari Most in greater numbers each year. 

Remembering the targeted destruction of the Stari Most on November 9th, however, is crucial and not only for the local community. We also remember as a reminder and to raise awareness of the continued widespread destruction of cultural heritage that occurs globally as an act of war. Typically, the destruction of cultural heritage is not accidental, but part of the greater aggression against identity groups and an erasure of these groups’ physical presence on the landscape. That the violent manipulation of cultural heritage continues to occur with alarming regularity highlights the power of the built landscape and its associated meanings. It is this power that compels us to visit heritage sites on our travels, seeking the local understanding of such sites while also sensing first-hand how they can serve to unite despite the diversity which they represent. 

For the 5th summer, the legendary Red Bull Cliff Divers are returning to Mostar to demonstrate their skill and courage as they jump from a platform built on the apex of the iconic Old Bridge. The main event will happen on Saturday, August 24th at 2:30 PM local time, but prepare for a fantastic weekend of live music, activities, and events!

For locals and visitors alike, this is a spectacle that you must not miss! If you are in Mostar on the day of the competition, get to the beach under the Old Bridge for the best view of the diving! Get there early to claim your spot and don’t forget to put on your sunscreen! For those of you who cannot make it in person, check out live coverage of the event on Red Bull TV, Facebook, and YouTube! 

And of course, Sheva Walking Tours will have their daily scheduled Free Walking Tour of Mostar at 930 AM and 6 PM. Meet us in the public space in front of the Hammam Museum in Old Town and take a walk with us…get the local perspective! We will tell you all about the history of the Old Bridge, the tradition of bridge diving, and the legends that surround both!

Believe it or not, the last weekend in July has arrived. What does that mean? The day has arrived for the annual bridge jumping competition at the Old Bridge in Mostar, BiH. 

The Bridge Diving will be held on Sunday, July 28th at 4 PM. So, come down to the beach under the Old Bridge and make yourself comfortable (arrive early to get a perfect seat!) and prepare to watch a Mostarian tradition that you will never forget. 

After the diving is over, make sure to find your way back to the public space in front of the Hammam Museum to walk with Sheva Walking Tours on a Free Walking Tour of Mostar at 6 PM! We will tell you all there is to know about the history and significance of the Old Bridge as well as explain the unique Bridge Diving Tradition for which Mostar has become known. 

See you tomorrow under the bridge! 

July 23rd 2004 – July 23rd 2019 

On this day, 15 years ago…

The Stari Most or, in direct English translation, “Old Bridge,” was officially opened after a long absence and extensive research and reconstruction efforts. Originally commissioned by Sultan Suleiman the Magnificent and designed and built by Mimar (Architect) Hayruddin, the Old Bridge was completed in 1566. The stone arch was and remains an undeniable testament to the potential of human ingenuity, vision, and spirit. 

For 427 years, the Old Bridge withstood the passage of time, holding firm against changes in governance, the continued growth of the Mostar, and multiple wars. The Old Bridge served as a backdrop for Mostarians, which, in turn, bore witness to celebration and sadness, triumph and loss. Mostarians understand the Old Bridge as more than a mere functional connection between two banks of the Neretva River, but a neighbor who supported the footfalls of generations previous, the worn patina on the stone steps a physical memory of those who had passed before. 

On the November 9th, 1993 – after being the central presence in a town whose very name refers to the structure and those meant to serve and protect it – the bridge was marked for destruction. Assaulted by direct bombardment from HVO forces on nearby hillsides, targeting the bridges apex – its keystone – the locally quarried stones of the Old Bridge plummeted into the water below. Witnesses say that it appeared the ruined stone arch bled that day as it collapsed into the Neretva, a result of the reddish-brown material filling the interior voids of the construction. The Old Bridge, including the beauty, strength, innovation, and history embedded within its stones, was yet another victim fallen to war and the hate, fear, and inhumanity that accompanies it.  

If you have seen one of the iconic jumps from the Old Bridge, you know that it is typically met with applause, whistles, and gasps of delight from locals and visitors alike. This morning at precisely 11:07 AM, a young member of the Mostar Diving Club jumped from the Old Bridge alongside a shower of white lilies to commemorate the events of this day – July 11 – in 1995. 

The dive this morning was met with silence. 

A moment of silence in memorial and witness to the atrocity of genocide that unfolded in Srebrenica 24 years ago where nearly 9,000 Bosniaks (mostly men and boys) were killed and the families to which they belonged were forever shattered. Today, in the village of Potočari at the Memorial Cemetery, the remains of 33 individuals who have been identified over the past year were interred in their final resting place. Still, over 1,000 victims remain missing and families wait to gain closure through the slow process of discovery and identification of bodies so that their loved ones can one day also be put to rest in the Memorial Cemetery. 

———————————————-

If you are visiting Bosnia and Herzegovina and would like to learn about Srebrenica, we recommend visiting the Memorial Center at Potočari and taking a guided tour – it is easily accessible as a day trip from Sarajevo and you can go by bus, car or an organized tour group. If you are unable to visit the Memorial Center, we highly recommend the Galerija 11/7/95, centrally located in Sarajevo (next to the Cathedral). At the Galerija, be sure to opt for an audio tour in your language and take the time to sit at the computer monitors upon initial entrance to the curated exhibits. The computer program will guide you through the details of the events leading up to the genocide to give you a full understanding of how and why the genocide occurred in Srebrenica and impress upon you why we must work together to prevent such atrocities in the future. 

Never Again. 

Yet another reason to visit Mostar this summer! Mostar Summer Fest arrives on June 27th to kick off the summer and this year locals and visitors alike will all get to enjoy 3 days of entertainment in Mostar’s Industrial zone! With a wide range of musical acts from the region taking the stage during the festival, including a line-up of DJs on the e-MOtion Stage, there is sure to be something for everyone. Some of the acts you can catch include Hladnog Piva, Partibrejkers, Vojko V, Brkovi, Elemental, Krešo Bengalka, Gustafi, Smoke Mardeljano, Laka, Frenkie,Kontra & Indigo, Van Velzen, Kanda, Koža i Nebojša, Pearl Jam Tribute (VS) and Mara.

Come visit Mostar – explore the heart of Herzegovina and experience its beauty during the day and dance the night away at the Mostar Summer Fest. 

Discounted festival tickets (35KM) and one-day tickets (15KM) are available until June 15th. For more information about line-ups, ticket prices, and point of purchase, check out the Mostar Summer Fest Website: www.mostarsummerfest.com

We will see you there! 

There are certain questions that come up on tour again and again. Some of our guests ask if this gets dull for us, showing visitors our hometown every day and hearing the same questions. And the answer is “No, it doesn’t!” And we mean it! 

Despite being asked a few of the same questions frequently, each tour is different because of our guests – Mostar’s complicated history and current day context might stay the same with only small developments day to day, but each tour is unique. Visitors come to Mostar with their own cultural background and identity, travel experiences, and knowledge and often contribute this to the narrative of the tour. When the groups are small enough (a reason to visit Mostar off-season), tours can feel like a conversation amongst friends. The first free tour I gave was with 4 fantastic women from Germany, Costa Rica and Russia – they were so open, curious, and knowledgeable that I was sad when we parted ways after 3 hours together! 

When we hear a question often enough, we learn to incorporate that information into the tour. There is one question, however, that we often hear even before we really get going on tour, especially from people that come from outside of the Balkans:

What exactly does Red Army (RA) 1981 refer to?

It is a great question, and it means that you are paying attention to your new surroundings. As you walk around Mostar you might see variations of this message spray painted on the sides of buildings. In some cases, it is incorporated into more elaborate murals. Most visitors believe it must have to do with communism, a military group or action…perhaps the Soviet Union. Maybe something political happened in 1981? Spoiler Alert: it is none of these particular things! Curious to find what this message really means? Come on tour with us. If you are especially interested in street art and graffiti, check out our Signs of the Times Tour: Urban Landscape Tour described under Private Tours, which will ensure you visit and get an explanation for the noteworthy murals as well as monuments and memorials located throughout the city. 

Bridge jumping is a well-established local custom with evidence dating from the 16th century suggesting that bridge jumping has been part of the Mostarian culture for over four centuries. The official traditional diving competition was inaugurated in 1968 and is held every year during the last weekend in July. Of course, if you cannot visit Mostar in July, local bridge divers can be seen jumping from the Old Bridge just about every day once the worst of the winter weather has passed (they wear wet suits!) and you can see the spectacle for yourself. 

Over the last handful of years, however, a new tradition has developed. For one weekend at the end of the summer, the Red Bull Cliff Divers arrive in Mostar to show off their skills as they dive from a platform built on top of the Old Bridge. This year (2019), this new tradition will continue on the afternoon of Saturday, August 24th! The Red Bull Cliff Diving is an event which tourists and locals both attend – gathering on the western bank of the Neretva as well as viewing from rafts and small boats that line the river on the river’s eastern side. The energy in the air during the days leading up to the competition and during the competition itself is palpable. Mostar as a whole puts on an unforgettable show that feels and tastes like the culmination of summer – live music and performances throughout the Old Town ensure that the cobblestone streets and the café bars that line them are packed well into the early hours of morning. While we hope to see you here, you can always join in by watching the diving live on Red Bull TV, Facebook and Youtube.